How to Fix a Dripping Tap (by Tap Type)

A dripping tap is almost always one of two faults: a perished rubber washer in a traditional capstan tap, or a worn ceramic disc cartridge in a modern lever tap. Isolate the supply, identify the type, swap the part. Most tap drips are a 20-30 minute job once you know which type you've got.

Identify your tap type

Before you start — every type

1. 1

   Isolate the supply

   Most modern installations have a screwdriver-slot isolation valve on the supply to each tap, usually under the sink. Turn it 90° so the slot sits across the pipe. If not present, shut off the stopcock.

2. 2

   Open the tap fully

   Drains pressure and any water remaining in the head.

3. 3

   Plug the basin

   Stops the inevitable screw or O-ring vanishing down the waste forever.

4. 4

   Lay out a towel

   Catches drips and protects the surface.

Fixing a traditional washer tap

A capstan or cross-head tap has a brass headgear that screws into the body. At the bottom of the headgear is a small rubber washer (often 1/2" or 3/4" depending on tap size) held by a tiny brass nut. Perished washer = drip.

1. 1

   Remove the handle

   There's usually a small grub screw on the side or a decorative cap on top hiding a screw. Lift the handle off.

2. 2

   Unscrew the headgear

   Use an adjustable spanner or basin wrench on the hexagonal headgear nut. Hold the body of the tap with a second spanner to stop it twisting on the basin.

3. 3

   Lift the headgear out

   The whole assembly comes out — washer and spindle in one piece.

4. 4

   Replace the washer

   Undo the small retaining nut, lift off the old (probably squashed and split) washer, fit a new one of the same size. A smear of silicone grease helps.

5. 5

   Reassemble in reverse

   Re-grease the spindle threads, screw headgear back in, refit handle. Restore water gradually and check for drips.

Fixing a ceramic disc cartridge tap

Modern quarter-turn taps and single-lever mixers use a sealed cartridge with two ceramic discs that slide across each other. You don't repair the discs — you replace the whole cartridge.

1. 1

   Pop off the handle cap and lever

   Most levers have a small cap on top (sometimes red/blue) hiding a grub screw. Remove screw, lift handle.

2. 2

   Unscrew the retaining nut

   Below the handle is a brass or plastic dome that unscrews to expose the cartridge body.

3. 3

   Lift out the old cartridge

   Note the orientation — most cartridges have a small alignment tab or flat. Take it to the merchant for an exact match.

4. 4

   Drop in the new cartridge

   Match the alignment. Tighten the retaining nut firmly but don't over-crank it — you'll crack the cartridge.

5. 5

   Refit lever, restore water

   Open the isolation valve slowly. Check the tap shuts cleanly in both positions.

Single-lever monobloc mixers

A monobloc mixer has a single chrome body with a single lever. The cartridge sits centrally. The procedure is the same as above, but on cheaper monobloc kitchen taps the cartridge replacement cost plus an hour of labour often approaches the cost of a new tap — so unless it's a premium brand (Grohe, Hansgrohe, Bristan, etc.) replacement frequently wins.

When to give up and replace the whole tap

• The tap body itself is leaking — water seeping from the base where it meets the basin.
• The headgear or cartridge housing is welded in with limescale and won't move.
• You've replaced washers / cartridges in the last 12 months and it's dripping again.
• The chrome plating is shot and you wanted a new look anyway.
• It's a 1970s spec on a modern UK pressure system and probably part of your water hammer problem.

See our tap replacement service for a full like-for-like swap, including disposing of the old tap and any seals or flexis required. Usually 60-90 minutes per tap, including testing.

Frequently Asked Questions

Related guides